WINE SPECTATOR SEPTEMBER 15, 2008
September 15, 2008
Tasting Highlights: California Pinot Noir James Laube Monday, September 15, 2008
15 new California Pinot Noirs from some of the state's top producers, and a rare outstanding California Pinotage
A range of Pinot Noirs shows both the promise and the difficulty of California when it comes to this finicky variety: Price is not a clear predictor of quality.
Fort Ross made two excellent true Sonoma Coast 2005 Pinots
I also liked Fort Ross's rare (for California) Pinotage, a grape from South Africa that is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault; it has a little more tannic backbone than Pinot Noir, perhaps because these grapes are among the closest vines to the Pacific Ocean.92 POINTS: 2005 PINOT NOIR RESERVE, Sonoma Coast, Fort Ross Vineyard
Spicy cola, raspberry, cranberry and savory herb and dried cherry fruit give this an intriguing range of complex flavors. Balanced, elegant and structured. Better than previously reviewed. Drink now through 2012. 513 cases made. —J.L.
90 POINTS: 2005 PINOT NOIR, Sonoma Coast, Fort Ross Vineyard
Fragrant plum, wild berry and raspberry, with spice, mineral, sage and cedary oak give this depth and firmness and a savory pleasant earthiness. Better than previously reviewed. Best from 2009 through 2012. 745 cases made. —J.L.
90 POINTS: 2004 PINOTAGE, Sonoma Coast, Fort Ross Vineyard
Ripe, juicy sour cherry and wild berry fruit teeters on tart, but is supple, fleshy and balanced, ending with a long, persistent finish. A rarity in California for this grape. Drink now through 2012. 170 cases made. —J.L.
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